An Ode to the U1

An Ode to the U1

I love the U1. I don’t live on the U1, and I’ve never lived on the U1, but I love the U1.

When I was 14, I moved to Berlin. I didn’t speak a word of German. I had never had a sip of alcohol. I didn’t know what techno was or even what weed smelled like, much less the intricate distinctions between der, die and das. Let’s just say I had a lot to learn. I learned a lot of it on the U1.

A few months into my first year here, I went to a concert at Bi Nuu, the bar located in Schlesisches Tor station. My friend Lisa and I took the U1 over, asked older kids to buy us tequila shots (they can’t have been older than 18) and stood in the front row, prepubescent heads bopping and bodies swaying as San Cisco serenaded us. I felt alive for the first time in a long time. I’d come from suburban New York where I needed parents to drive me wherever I wanted to go. And the year before moving to Berlin, I had lost one of mine to cancer, making my social options severely limited purely by the lack of a driver’s license holding adult in my immediate vicinity. My dad worked 9-5 in New York City and I sat at home and stared at Tumblr. I thought that was the epitome of existence.

 

 

A year later, Lisa and I sat on the platform above Bi Nuu waiting for the train home, no later than our midnight curfew and slightly tipsy on two-euro tequila. Lisa taught me how to say Schlesisches Tor (Schlaaay, zeeee, schess, TOR), and we took the U1 back towards Schöneberg, our haven of safe and familiar in West Berlin. I watched the city flash by and felt happy to be there, looking down on the world from above. Now this was the epitome of existence.

The U1 is the oldest section of the Berlin U-bahn. The first train ran on the line in 1902, 110 years before I rode it for the first time. It currently stretches from Warschauer Straße in the east to Uhlandstraße in the west, cutting a straight line across the BVG map. 8.8 kilometers, 13 stations, approximately 20 minutes end to end.

 

 

My favorite station is Schlesisches Tor. When I was 17, I got my first ever job at White Trash Fast Food, the legendary American restaurant that had recently moved to Am Flutgraben. I was hired as a “bar runner,” which basically meant I washed glasses and was everyone’s bitch. Every Friday night I took the U7 to Möckernbrucke and changed to the U1 where I would cruise along the stations to Schlesi. I’d walk down Schlesische Straße, past the dealers offering me dirty drugs, headphones blasting whatever garbage I thought was worth listening to at the time. At work I ran around and made mistakes and even kissed a boy in the walk-in refrigerator from time to time. When he told me his girlfriend wasn’t home one night and asked if I wanted to come back to his place I pretended not to hear and ran across the street to Club der Visionäre, which would offer us free entrance after work. I danced would until my feet hurt and the sun rose and the U1 whisked me back West.

But sometimes it didn’t. There were months at a time when the U1 was consumed by “Ersatzverkehr.” A replacement bus would drag me from Möckernbrücke over to Schlesi and I’d make my trek to work. After I finished high school, I went on a five-month backpacking trip around South East Asia. When I left, White Trash still stood resolute and the U1 ran every day and every night, like clockwork. When I returned, White Trash was gone and the U1 wasn’t running. I got a new job at another restaurant on Schlesische Straße and waited for my skytrain to run again. I spent countless nights watching Skalitzer Straße for approaching replacement busses after six hour shifts and eight-hour dance sessions at Chalet or Ipse or Arena.

 

 

When I moved to Amsterdam for university there was no U1. No way to view the city from above and travel across the best parts of it, like clockwork. Amsterdam’s public transportation left much to be desired when compared to the magic of the BVG.

Upon my return to Berlin last summer, I was dismayed to find my beloved U1 under construction once again. Just one more thing that I love about Berlin had been taken away, this time not necessarily by the pandemic, but I took it as a personal blow, nonetheless. But by the end of March the line will begin once again, day and night, like clockwork. I won’t be using it to every day to bring me back and forth to my grimy bar jobs anymore, but my love for the U1 will never falter. It showed me what it meant to be young in a city full of possibilities. And therefore, I will always love the U1.

 

Trainspotting Berlin: Silent Night, Lonely Night

Trainspotting Berlin: Silent Night, Lonely Night

Collecting small anecdotes of transitory moments.

One last energetic jump—right before departure, I make it into the narrow U1 car.

BEEP BEEP BEEP.

Doors closing; I take a seat on the purple patterned bench,

letting my gaze wander: around me, commuters in disguise––fellow passengers hide their faces behind oversized scarves and collars, almost a dozen figures, in front of nostalgic wood paneling in chestnut brown.

Read on…

What does your favorite U-Bahn Line say about you? Part 2

What does your favorite U-Bahn Line say about you? Part 2

photo: Alicia Kassebohm

Due to popular demand, I’m back with the continuation of my U-Bahn-themed musings. I’ve got a ticket to ride for all the lines I’ve initially left out, so that I can complete the emotional profile of a Berlin commuter.

The lines I’m featuring in this article really hint at some deeper affection to the city. They’re neither U1-like joy rides leading up to Warschauer Straße like some urban rollercoaster, nor are they mainly focused on touristy sights like the U2 which could almost be the BVG’s cheaper alternative to all the tour buses. This one is for all you Berlin locals who’ve wandered off the beaten track all the way down to such underrated indie boroughs like Wedding, Tempelhof-Schöneberg or Steglitz. You guys know there’s more to Berlin than techno sanctuaries and souvenir shops.

Read on…

What does your favorite U-Bahn line say about you?

What does your favorite U-Bahn line say about you?

photo: Ingolf / cc

Ever since I could apply some of my German understanding into practice, I’ve been impressed with the BVG’s marketing strategy. Their hilarious billboards really embrace the city’s spirit that comprises lots of contrasts, like comely goth girls surrounding an elderly gentleman in an U-Bahn. Images like that are so successful with the public because we all can relate to this distinct image of an underground Berlin train: eerily empty on a Wednesday night, on Friday evening overcrowded to the extent that makes you think of the London Tube, often stinky, always about to become a venue for some busker’s performance. This is where the life happens. Or rather, this is where the life stops – just for the amount of time you need for your commute you can catch a little moment of thought before you’re back on the busy street, heading on to your destination.

After having amused myself with curiously observing the coincidental company I’d see come and go on my U-Bahn rides as well as having absorbed a good deal of the Berlin urban clichees, I’ve come up with this handy little guide to some of our favorite lines and their direct impact on our personalities.

Read on…

The Glorious Past of Berlin’s Subway and Train Stations

The Glorious Past of Berlin’s Subway and Train Stations

Bülowstraße, 1903

One of the most iconic things about Berlin is surely its subway lines. Like a yellow snake it makes its way through the city, it’s so recognizable and its shade of yellow so particular. Berliners and visitors alike seem to love it so much, also the tiles underground stations that often have beautiful patterns that have been cherished and capture many times for Instagram.

But there was a time when the U-Bahn and S-Bahn stations had quite a different aesthetic. At the turn of the 19th to 20th century they were glorious big buildings with stunning architecture. Thanks to the fact that Berlin’s streets weren’t so dense with buildings at the time these stations really stood out in their places, having so much room to breath. Some of the stations actually remained like that for over 100 years until now, while others have been reconstructed or rebuild in more modern ways. Many subway stations have indeed been replaced with simple staircases into the underground without a building on top.

Today we want to take a look back at the history of Berlin’s most beautiful and stunning U-Bahn and S-Bahn stations. Enjoy!

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Urban Legends of Berlin: Better Internet in the U-Bahn?

Urban Legends of Berlin: Better Internet in the U-Bahn?

We all know some urban myths: Everyone has heard about them, but no-one really knows if they are true and so rumors make rounds and are passed on. We want to take a closer look at some of Berlin’s urban legends and stories that we’ve all heard of and finally uncover the one and only truth.

So let’s begin with the mobile internet connection in the Berlin U-Bahn: Is it really true that you get a better wireless data connection the closer you’re to the front of the train? And what about free Wifi at the train stations in the near future?

We talked to the BVG and got our mystery questions answered. The whole truth after the jump…

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Berlin’s Most Beautiful Subway Stations

Berlin’s Most Beautiful Subway Stations

Sometimes, living in a big city, you tend to overlook the beauty of ordinary things. You pass them on your way to work, to your friend’s house or to your home: Berlin’s subway stations. But have you ever noticed the sometimes hidden beauty of them? Claudio Galamini took it upon him to capture Berlin’s beautiful „U-Bahnhöfe“ and displays their charm on his Instagram.

About two weeks after he started taking the subway in Berlin, Claudio noticed the colors, shapes and the overall architecture of the metro stations. Now, he posts a picture every day, often even with a little bit of history. So next time you pass one of the stations you will see them through the eyes of Claudio. Scroll down to check out some of the most beautiful subway stations.

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