For me the most important part of Berlin Fashion Week are the young designers who are still in their wild and experimental phase where they are trying out new things with their designs regardless of any commercial aspect of fashion. The fashion shows of the design schools of Berlin, such as the UdK, Weißensee, HTW, Esmod and others, are a wonderful pool of talent and ideas and I always try to see as many shows like that as I can. This season I made it to the UdK show and the self-organized group show of 4th semester HTW students at Stadtbad Oderberger. Both shows presented a big number of designers and it’s always a bit of a bazaar of different styles and qualities of fashion. In both shows I had one absolute favorite. At the UdK it was the graduate collection of Henning Jurke who presented his work under the title Celebration. When the first look of his menswear collection – a vibrant trench coat in hot metallic pink – entered the runway I instantly had to smile and got into a really good mood excited for every next look to come onto the runway. It’s one of those rare moments during fashion week when a design triggers an emotion in you that makes the whole hassle of sitting through one show after the other totally worth it.
The same thing happened to me with the last pair of outfits by Wiebke Christin Le Bus at the doppelgaenger show by the HTW students. The mix of Where The Wild Things Are and South American folklore was just a delight to see and instantly made me dream of a whole collection in that style. I specifically liked the idea of the colorful knitted pants transitioning into colorful painted feet. Enjoy some impressions of both shows after the jump.
UdK Fashion Show 2012, graduate collection of designer Henning Jurke:
doppelgaenger fashion show, 4th semester students of HTW, designer Wiebke Christin Le Bus: