Li Torres AW14/15
Those of you who follow me on Instagram have probably already noticed that I have once again fled Berlin to my second heart city Buenos Aires. I was actually only looking for sun and warmth, but what I found was actually even better: Buenos Aires Fashion Week, or as they like to call it: BAFWEEK. Of course I took the opportunity to check out some of the local designers with their shows and was pleasantly surprised about how well made the fashion week is here. Of all the shows I watched I chose my favorite ones and presented the first part on Two For Fashion and today the second here on iHeartBerlin. Enjoy my impressions after the jump!
Kostüme is a label that I already discovered and admired at my last trip to Buenos Aires 2 years ago. I met the designer duo behind it in a showroom before the show and talked with them about the quite European style of their label and their inspiration. They have been in the industry for quite a while now, this was their 27th collection they presented. And the German label name (which translates to costumes) is inspired by Bauhaus. I can see that in their designs also. For this collection they went with sharp horizontal contrasts between black and white or grey. It is indeed a bit reminescent of retro Bauhaus. My personal favorites though were the “prison” jumpsuits in orange and brown tie-die denim. Totally “Orange is the new Black”.
Noteworthy are also the shoes in this show that were custom-made for Kostüme by talented local shoe-maker Lucas Sanchez. I have my own pair in the making right now so I am excited to finally wear them soon in Berlin.
Li Torres is a young design duo that creates very modern, futuristic menswear. The first part of the show was all white and very futuristic shapes and details, while along the way some color splashes in red and blue came up with more classic looks, culminating in all black outfits with a more European avant-garde streatwear aesthetic.
Just as the previous label Andrea Urquizu also belongs to the garde of young designers in Buenos Aires that gets a lot of praise. Her designs perfectly fit the picture of Argentian fashion for me. Dark, serious, not very typical South American, yet a bit traditional and totally patriotic. I especially liked the folkloric details in some of the pieces and the very long almost-dress like tops.
Juan Hernandez Daels
So here comes my absolute favorite of the BAFWEEK shows: Young designer Juan Hernandez Daels. He is a graduate of the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp. I guess that already says a lot. His collection really stood out both in originality and also in quality. I loved this collection and was taken by surprise how gorgeous it was. So classy. And he found a way to be very Argentina with a flair of European finesse. I hope he will find his way to become a huge success!