Lee Bul at Mudam
Luxembourg was never really on my radar when speaking about fancy art travel destinations. But as we attended the opening of the Luxembourg Design City Biennale we had to re-adjust our mindset about the small state between Germany and France. We spend a couple of wonderful days and enjoyed not only high class contemporary art at one of the most beautiful museums of the world, the Mudam, but also indulged in delicious food and breath-taking panoramas. Since Luxembourg is just a one hour flight away from Berlin it is the perfect weekend escape. After the jump you find our little art and travel guide with our favourite spots in town.
Mudam
1. Mudam -Musée d’Art Moderne Grand-Duc Jean
As already mentioned in the introduction I was rarely as impressed by a museum as I was with the Mudam. The architecture of the building reminds me of a modern cathedral giving contemporary art the holy radiance it deserves. The current exhibitions of South Korean artist Lee Bul featuring crystal-shaped cities floating chandelier-like in the sky, robotic women sculptures with missing limbs reminding statues of the Greek Antique and a whole set up of the artist studio is a must see for everyone who loves the mix between futuristic architecture, manga and Swarosvki crystals. The exhibition of the design biennale Never for Money, always for Love is less future-oriented, but looks into the controversy of the design discipline in crumbling economies like in Portugal or Spain, showing how easy new ways of creating and living can be found through intelligent design. Last but not least the chapel by artist Wim Delvoye will make you shiver quite a bit while observing the images sealed in stained glass mosaics.
Lee Bul exhibition
Never for Money, Always for Love exhibition
Wim Delvoye exhibition
2. Casino Luxembourg – Forum d’art contemporain
Inside the citys former gambling hotspot now is an exclusive exhibition space. Without touching the historical substance of the building the architect Urs Rausmüller inserted a series of uniformed white cubes in the several floors of the building to be a neutral backdrop for the artwork. Also worth to mention is that the new artistic director Kevin Muhlen is very young and bold and gives the artistic selection of the space an eclectic and unusual vibes for a federal art institution.
Casino Luxembourg
3. Swimming Pool – Fashion Store and Gallery
Strolling through the city you will see that the french chicness is probably more on vouge in Luxembourg that the german practicality. But where are all the people buying their great attire? Maybe some of them take a plunge into the swimming pool. This concept store is a vibrant colorful place with a great selection of designer clothes unfortunately only for women. A good reason for men to enter this elegant boutique is the upstairs gallery featuring some very avant-garde art installations.
Swimming Pool Luxembourg
This beautiful parc inside the city center is one major exhibition place for the design city biennale. The green lung of the city is presented as a public space to experiment. Three large-scale projects show design intervention in open space from different angles. My favourite one is the installation “OVERSHOOT” consisting in a series of swings all connected to each other. The title and enigmatic word game over the swingso refers to the idea of Earth Overshoot Day. It concerns the annual estimation of the date on which humanity will have depleted stock of natural resources the planet can offer in a given year (for example, in 2013 it was 20th August).
Kinnekswiss Parc
Villa Vauban
5. Porcelain. Coffee, Madeleines and Vintage Fun
In between the art hotspots the small city has a great number of relaxing cafes, shops and bars to have a break. We felt in love with Kaale Kaffi immediately for its little museum like vintage shop inside the cafe. But also the cafe and bar called Konrad that is a lovely place to get a coffee and read a magazine in style. And if you like to a sweet with your afternoon tea you should try one madeleine or two – a local delicacy worth a sin in your diet plan. If you’re looking for a nice souvenir from Luxembourg you should check out the flagship store of world-famous Luxembourg-based porcelain manufacturer Villeroy & Boch.
Kaale Kaffi
Konrad
Café by Lea Linster
Villeroy & Boch
Postcards of the Royals
6. Neverending Panoramas
Even if we may seem only caring about experimental art and crazy parties, Frank and I are quite fond of beautiful sunset panoramas. And without expecting it Luxembourg has a few breath-taking views. Since the city is build on several mountains and its also quite old you can watch over the aqueduct and the castle and feel a little awww leaving your mouth.
So even if the Design City Biennale is not going on there is plenty nice things to see and explore easily by foot in Luxembourg in any season which is why it is definitely worth a trip for us over-excited Berliners. Thanks again to Mudam for inviting us and showing us the art hotspots in town.
